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在凤凰
发布时间: 2015-10-30
信息来源: 本站
3135
如果去湖南,一定要去凤凰。——题记
去之前便知道这是个美丽的湘西小城,可有了丽江的前车之鉴,便不敢抱有特别大的期望。
到达凤凰古城的时候已经是晚上快十点了,由于第二天的行程会离开,所以尽管累,也要跑去看看夜晚的凤凰。过了灯火辉煌的南华门,就进入到了古城。走着来到桥上,映入眼里的夜色中的古城灯火,一下子让我忘掉了旅程中的各种疲惫。拍够照片下到江畔,更是热闹。果然古城最热闹的时间是由晚上十点开始。对面酒吧的音乐声,各种叫卖声、嘈杂声,因着沱江的清新流水,让我觉得并不烦躁。穿上少数民族特色的服装,头戴鲜艳的花环,看着夜色中的江水,在过江栈道上放河灯许愿,都让人意犹未尽,不舍离开。人转的累了,回到住处,翻看着手机里照片,兴奋得睡不着,开始期待着白天的凤凰。
凤凰古城因其背后山的形状像凤凰而得名,更因沈从文笔下的《边城》和大师黄永玉而出名。一早随着汹涌的人潮,第一站我们就来到了沈从文的故居。每位作家或许都有自己的写作癖好,沈先生的癖好便是边写作边听音乐。呵呵,这是通过音乐激发灵感呢还是搅乱思路呢?从故居出来更是壮观,游人多的连步子都迈不动了。不知道沈先生在时可曾想到他的故居、他的家乡有一天会如此火爆呢?
为家乡创作作品的除了沈从文,还有书画大师黄永玉。他以家乡的沱江为题材绘制了长卷,存放在他的展览馆中。展览以他的一首诗开始:
我的心
只有我的心
亲爱的故乡
它是你的。
读了颇让人感动。每个人都有他的家乡,不管她是繁华都市,还是边陲小镇,我们都要义无反顾地爱她。若是可能,在有限的能力内,为她做些什么,不是吗?在他们身上,那种对家乡的无比热爱,尤使我难忘。
因着这里的艺术气息,更深深地爱上了这座古城。虽然也满是酒吧店铺,虽然也游人如织,不是我心中静谧的样子,但因为有了沱江,我便觉得这里有了灵魂。做为长江的一段支流,沱江水算不上清澈,但却是当地居民的水源。逛累了坐在江边的石凳上,看用竹篓背着孙辈的大爷在江边上淌水,上了年纪的阿婆在江边洗衣,感受着质朴的生活。沱江就是古城人的母亲河。
泛舟沱江更让人惬意。坐在乌篷船里看两岸的吊脚楼、万名塔倒映在绿水之中,如在山水画中游。
泛舟后就去走那个过江的跳岩,对于我这个大胆的人来说是最爱做的了。江水就在脚边缓缓流过,撩起裙角,在一高一矮的两排跳岩上横穿沱江,感受着古老的湘西风情。
坐在江边发呆,看不急不缓的江水、看来来往往的人流,似乎什么烦恼都没了,多想时光就此静止,永远停在在凤凰的那一刻。
上到北门古城墙,看城楼上不慌不忙做着手里刺绣的阿婆,丝毫不被往来的游人所扰,仿佛时光在她们手里的针尖间穿梭,几十年的光景就那么倏忽而过,想必她们年轻时定是绣功极好的美人吧。
踏着石板路,路边的一步一景都让我热爱。卖水的热情阿哥给我印象最深,或许他不是当地人,但做出的蜂蜜柠檬却品味之至,让我感受到了湘西人的热情。
凤凰美,美在背篓中婴儿的纯净笑容里,美在倒映在沱江的景色里,美在如诗如画的梦里。山、水、人,我爱上了这里,爱上了这里的一切,凤凰城。都说凤凰可以涅槃重生,我觉得人也如此,看过了那么多风景,经历的人和事,终会让人成长。
把最美的风景留在心里,在凤凰。
(作者系党委工作部教师)
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